Cycling the Stelvio
So far, I have mostly constrained my European cycling targets to those within Switzerland (of which there are plenty, to be sure). But when a friend suggested we ride the [Stelvio Pass](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stelvio_Pass) in Italy, Europe’s 5th-highest paved road and the 2nd-highest pass, it was like a new world opened up–cycling in another country on a day trip. I couldn’t join him then but vowed to do it before I left.
Of course, at 2757 meters (9045 feet) elevation, time was running short before the weather changed. The Stelvio is usually only open from mid-June to late September, blocked by snow the rest of the year. There is [an annual motor-free day](http://www.stelviobike.it/) as well, where cyclists take over all three summit roads. So when yesterday’s forecast for that event was clear and dry, I snuck out of the house early to pursue my goal.
I caught a train in pre-dawn darkness to Zernez, in the [Engadin region](http://www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/sommer/en/) of the Alps. The bike car was full of riders and machines; mostly mountain bikers heading for the single Swiss National Park. They boarded another bus while I started riding up the Ofenpass, my 700m “warm-up” climb. I could see my breath as I climbed in the cool morning air, which quickly heated up when I crested and descended into the town of Santa Maria.
I crossed the border with nary a glance from the customs officers, and continued descending into the town of Prato, the traditional start of the Stelvio climb. From there it was 25 kilometers and 1800 meters to the top. The organization had set up a little departure celebration with food and drinks, something they repeated at a few places up the climb and which was very welcome.
The climb started well, with shaded roads and steady gradients. I spotted the first of 48 countdown signs at the apex of the first of 48 switchbacks. Soon, however, we left the trees and shade behind and the switchbacks began in earnest, snaking their way straight up the mountain.
The views were incredible.
I met up with another friendly rider, even taller and bigger than me, and we rode most of the climb together. Near the top I was cramping frequently but managed to just hold it together until the summit. We enjoyed the view and the (thin) air while recovering with Cokes and sausage sandwiches (yes, even for me–3 hours of climbing does that to you).
Then it was time for our well-deserved reward: the downhill. I was headed back into Switzerland via the Santa Maria route, as was my friend. We finally got our revenge on the flyweights as we cruised effortlessly past them on the barren, moon-like upper slopes of the descent.
The amazing thing was that since most riders had already finished their climb, but the roads were not yet open for cars (they opened at 4pm; we started the descent at 3:30), we had a completely free path. It felt like it must in the Giro or Tour, with pristine mountain passes blocked off for your personal use. Not until the very bottom did we encounter the first few cars, after 30 minutes of free and clear descending.
Back in Santa Maria, my friend offered a ride in his big Mercedes van back to Zernez, which I gratefully accepted. That saved me another 700 meters of climbing and 90 minutes of riding. I spun out my legs for 7km to the town of Susch, and hopped on the next train.
I made it back to Zurich just before the skies opened up and rain cooled down the air. I think it even snowed on the Stelvio. And here’s what it looked like at 4pm today:
I’m glad I got my chance to suffer on the Stelvio.
Here are the video highlights (the long descent starts at 27:04):
The route map:
And all my photos from this epic day:
